Оливье с лягушатиной. Как живут русские женщины во Вьетнаме

Уникальные истории россиянок, уехавших за мужьями во Вьетнам и ставших там «своими».
56-летняя Валентина Нгуен (в девичестве — Никифорова) лихо разъезжает по городу Хошимину на мопеде: это даёт возможность объехать чудовищные «пробки».
«Представляю себя в родном Барнауле, — смеётся она. — Я же уже бабушка, две внучки у меня. И на тебе — байкер, несусь с бешеной скоростью. Соседки бы перекрестились, наверное».

В Хошимин Валентина переехала 33 года назад, в 1985 году, выйдя замуж за вьетнамского студента, с которым познакомилась в Москве.

«Сначала сложно было, — вспоминает она. — Везде дефицит, ничего не купишь. Причём советский дефицит — это ерунда, вот во Вьетнаме был караул: они же под санкциями находились у Америки.
Под более тяжелыми, чем Россия сейчас. Каждый раз, когда родню навещала в Союзе, везла домой кастрюли, чайники, электрические утюги. Вот с едой зато всё было нормально, тут сесть покушать — это настоящий культ.
Сейчас даже квартиры новые продают без кухонь, народ обедает и ужинает в небольших ресторанчиках, вкусно и дёшево.

Первое время без наших продуктов изводилась.
Колбасы варёной нет, а как без неё оливье на Новый год сделаешь? Наловчилась готовить с лягушатиной, лягушка ведь вкуснее курицы, нежная и сочная, их тушки на каждом углу продают.

 

Правда, однажды на праздники сестру из Барнаула пригласила, она салат такой есть не стала: выплюнула, раскричалась.
А как-то достала через консульство советское селёдку, так муж её взял и пожарил: вот я психовала-то! Говорю ему: «Кто ж солёную рыбу-то жарит?!» А он: «Так она сырая»».

Как признаётся Валентина, во Вьетнаме ей нравится: особенно то, что из любого города легко доехать до моря и круглый год имеются свежие фрукты за копейки.

От снега отвыкла.
Год назад прилетела в Москву, у вас минус два всего, замёрзла как цуцик. А я ведь сибирячка, морозы минус тридцать для нас — вообще норма.
Тут везде, кроме Ханоя, круглый год жара.

42-летняя москвичка Светлана живёт в Ханое 18 лет: с будущим мужем они нашли друг друга на экономическом форуме в Санкт-Петербурге.
«Традиции меня удивляют, — объясняет она. — Страна социалистическая формально, но многие верят в духов и богов, ходят в храмы, основная просьба в молитвах — чтобы потусторонние силы послали много денег.
К русским отношение хорошее, хотя сына сначала дразнили в детском саду за то, что с ошибками говорит по-вьетнамски. Я не работала, сидела с ребёнком. Здесь считается, что мужик должен семью обеспечивать.
Мой супруг «пахал» днём и ночью. Пьяным никогда его не видела, пару бутылок пива выпьет в праздник — и всё.

Такого, как в России случается, чтобы муж дома на диване валялся, а жена на трёх работах изводилась, стараясь детей накормить, во Вьетнаме быть не может.
Люди местные очень работящие и всегда всё делают для семьи. Хотя всякое бывает, конечно.
Подруга вот моя развелась, уехала обратно в Норильск.
Муж её бил, а родня его и вовсе к колдуну ходила, кобру в жертву принесли, чтобы её извести. Но это скорее исключение.

Наших женщин вьетнамцы ценят, тут большой удачей считается на русской жениться.
Тем более что вьетнамские девчонки стремятся в основном выскочить за иностранца: за немца, шведа.
Или за корейцев.
Даже за китайцев замуж идут охотно.

Хотя китайцев во Вьетнаме исторически не любят. В гости я ходить с некоторых пор не люблю, не знаешь, на что нарвёшься: один раз хозяева жареную собаку подали. Их в духовке запекают, как у нас курицу, это деликатесом считается. Ну и, конечно, климат тут зверский.
Вещи быстро в негодность приходят, влажность высокая, выйдешь на 10 минут на улицу, сразу вся потная, стиральная машинка — лучший друг.

Даже в наше время браки между гражданками России и гражданами Вьетнама достаточно популярны: в 2010 году в Москве они вышли на третье место после свадеб москвичек с жителями Германии и Израиля. Нашим девушкам, недавно переехавшим во Вьетнам, живётся проще «старожилов».
В стране действует социализм с «китайским лицом»: всё частное (даже обучение детей в школах и медицина), можно заниматься любым бизнесом, но при этом единственная партия в республике — коммунистическая.

«Вьетнамцы к социализму относятся серьёзно, — утверждает 26-летняя Альбина из Новороссийска, ныне живущая в Хюэ. — Красные флаги везде висят с серпом и молотом. У многих людей родственники погибли на войне с американцами, и их память чтят. Вступить в партию считается огромным почётом.
Мне не предлагали, но я и сама бы отказалась, как-то «стремаюсь» коммунисткой быть. Полюбила местную кухню, особенно суп фо бо с говядиной: вьетнамцы едят его на завтрак, обед и ужин.
Европейские продукты в крупных магазинах можно легко найти: тут велико влияние французских колонизаторов, владевших Вьетнамом почти 100 лет, есть «молочка», сыры, даже сметана!
В Китае, например, такого не отыщешь: там вообще молочных продуктов в местной кухне нет.

Детей вьетнамцы обожают, и нет такого, чтобы бабушка отказывалась с внуком сидеть, как в России иногда бывает: вьетнамские бабули ещё и всерьёз подерутся за то, у кого именно ребёнок лето проведёт.

Бесит «живность».
Тараканов, змей, ядовитых сколопендр полно. Зайду в ванную — сначала осматриваюсь.
Или есть такая лихорадка денге. Комар тебя укусит, подхватишь, и потом месяц как в приступе гриппа валяешься, ничем не лечится, пока сама не пройдёт. Репелленты всегда дома держу».

«Раньше мы русской женской общиной посиделки устраивали на праздники, чай пили, блины пекли, — вспоминает 59-летняя Людмила из Тамбова, перебравшаяся с мужем в Хошимин в 1981 году. — Сейчас уже такого нет: русских во Вьетнаме стало много, пропало чувство одиночества в чужой стране.
В Муйне (вьетнамский морской курорт — Авт.) переселенцев из России вообще тысячи: приезжают, гидами работают, открывают бары, рестораны, этому… дайвингу учат.
По-вьетнамски «новые русские» не говорят, английским обходятся… А я в своё время намучилась, пока учила.
Язык-то тональный, один звук произнесёшь не так — и значение другое.

«Люблю тебя» скажешь с чуть иной интонацией, получится: «Пошёл ты к чёрту».
Но ничего, выучила.
Аж на двух диалектах говорю. Хотя дома на русском общались, муж его отлично знал, да и для детей так было лучше». Супруг Людмилы скончался три года назад, в Россию она возвращаться не хочет.
«Тут уже сыновья, внуки… А дома давно никто не ждёт, там родственники ещё в девяностые мамину квартиру продали».

Свекровь, по словам Людмилы, в их дела с мужем не лезла:
«Тут косо не смотрят, если жена из другой страны. Сразу после войны русские во Вьетнаме были как настоящие боги. Все нас от сердца благодарили за помощь в войне против американцев. А так трудно жили, конечно: только в 1975 партизаны Сайгон освободили, переехала сюда — ни горячей воды нет, ни туалета нормального, разруха.
Тайфун когда приходит — у-у-у… Дождь стеной, пальмы ветер ломает (смеётся). Ну ничего: мы, русские бабы, привычные».

Точной статистики уже нет, но предположительно, только в 1975—1991 гг. во Вьетнам переехали 11 тысяч девушек из бывшего СССР, последовав за мужьями: тогда в Союзе училось множество вьетнамских студентов.
Кто-то из новобрачных впоследствии (вместе с супругом) вернулся в Россию, а кто-то остался во Вьетнаме, привыкнув и к климату, и к тайфунам, и к водке на змее. Это ещё раз утверждает в мысли, что наши женщины лучшие в мире.
Жаль только, что мы далеко не всегда умеем их ценить.

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